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Harvey Shirt Sew-Along Part 2: Making the sleeve & Sleeve Binding

Posted by Betsy C on

Make the Sleeve Slit for Long Sleeve View

6. Make the cut for the sleeve slit stopping at the circle mark.

7. Take the strip of bias for the sleeve slit and fold one edge in ¼” (.6cm). Press flat. 

Divide length of strip in half and cut apart.

8. On right side of the sleeve, sew the non-folded edge of the placket bias strip around the slit. Start with ¼” (.6cm) stitch width, stitching almost to 1/16” (.15cm) at top of the slit. Pivot and reverse to bottom of opposite side. 

Don't worry if your sleeve binding is a little longer than the slit. Once complete you can trim to be level with the sleeve. 

You may need to clip to the stitch of the top of the "V". But make sure not to cut the stitch. It is important that this step is very precise so the top corner will look neat.

9. Turn sleeve to wrong side. Turn binding in ¼” (.6cm) to create a wrap-around (1/4” (.6cm) on front, ¼” (.6cm) on inside). Topstitch through all layers. 

*This step gets a little fussy. It can help to pin in place, baste, then topstitch.

 

(I always do cuz I'm a little bit of a chicken when it comes to this step).

10. Working on wrong side of sleeve, fold sleeve so slit binding edges are touching and stacked on top of one another. Topstitch through the two layers of binding diagonally. This step prevents the slit from gaping open. The finished outcome will look like below.

11. With right sides together, sew sleeve cap into the armhole with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for opposite side. Note: sleeve cap notch aligns with notch on yoke. Press seam allowance up (towards neck). 

12. With right sides together, sew the sleeve together at the underarm seam, continuing to the armhole with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance; pivot and continue to sew the front and back side seams together. Repeat for opposite side.

Next up for the sew-along: Making the sleeve cuffs


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