It's time to get sewing on the Sazerac Vest! I've pulled together a comprehensive explanation of the sewing steps. But if you need additional images for clarification be sure to check out the sewalong for the Sazerac dress since they share many steps.
1. Apply the interfacing pieces to the wrong side of the front body center front edges.
2. With right sides together, sew the center front to the side front with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.
3. With right sides together, sew the center back pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Sew the side back panels to the center back panels with 1/2” (1.2 cm) seam allowance.
4. With right sides together, sew the front shoulder to the back shoulder with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.
5. With right sides together, sew the back facing pieces together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance.
6. With right sides together, sew the front facing to the back facing at the shoulder seams with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.
7. With right sides together, align the facing neckline edge to the neckline edge of the body. Sew together with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Pivot at the the dot at the center front edge. Stop sewing at the dot on the bottom edge.
8. Understitch the neckline seam allowance towards the facing all around the neck and to bottom of center front edge, pivoting at the same points as step 7. Turn back the facing to the previous position where right sides are together.
9. With right sides together, sew the armhole edge of the facing to the armhole edge of the body with 3/8” (1cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.
10. Working on the right side of the garment, understitch the armhole seam allowance towards the facing. Start at the front underarm and go up as far as you can towards the shoulder seam and stop. Repeat for the back armhole, starting at the back underarm. Repeat for the opposite side.
11. Turn the vest right side out by pulling the front body to the back through the tunnel of the shoulder. Repeat for the opposite side. Once the garment is right side out, press the neckline and armhole edges flat.
12. Time to close the side seams! Flip the armhole facing up/away from the body. With right sides together, align the front and back body along the side seams, also aligning the facings at the side seams. Sew together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Repeat for the opposite side.
13. Make the faux pockets:
Fold faux welt in half, matching long sides, with wrong sides together. Press flat.
14. Push facing away so it is not included in the following steps.
Align the open edge of the faux welt to the body markings. (The folded side should point towards the hem.) Stitch through all layers with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance, starting and stopping exactly at the dots.
15. Turn the faux welt up and press flat. Turn the edges in 1/2” (1.2cm) and iron flat. Edgestitch next to the folded edge, through all layers, on each side to secure to the body.
16. Turnback the facing edge with the narrowest turnback you can manage (recommending 1/4” (6mm) or less. Iron flat and then edgestitch next to the folded edge to secure the turnback to the facing.
17. On the inside of the garment, tack the lower edge of the facing to the body at underarms, center back and princess seams, invisibly either by hand or machine.
18. At the bottom center front hem edge, turn the facing and outer body so right sides are together. Sew the bottom center front edge and the facing together with 1/2” (1.2cm) seam allowance. Turn right side out and press flat.
19. For the remaining bottom hem you can either turn back the edge 1/2” (1.2cm) towards the wrong side and topstitch/blindstitch or you can turn back the edge 1/4” (6mm) twice towards the wrong side and topstitch. The hem turn back should be level where the facing finished.
20. Use the button placement guide on the facing pieces to mark the position of the buttons. Position the button and buttonholes as per sketch- buttons on wearers left side, buttonholes on wearers right side.
Tip: Mark the position before making the holes and try the garment on. One button should be placed at your apex level to prevent gaping. Re-space if necessary.
And Voila! You have a Sazerac Vest. What do you think? Make sure to tag your makes on Instagram using #SBCCSazerac