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My Interfacing of Choice

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The purpose of fusible is to add stability and body to a garment. This should not include making a garment as stiff as a board. Most options available at mainstream sewing retailers include the stiffest, paper-like interfacing and versions of. For me, anything paper, or pellon-ish is bad. Fusible should be so light in comparison to the main fabric that it is almost not noticeable. I prefer to use a … Read More →

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Block Fusing

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So you are cutting a pattern. You finish all of the fashion fabric and then it is on to the interfacing. Gotta go and get it out. Cut that too and then painstakingly align to the correct pieces to the fashion fabric– and they seem to never align properly, so you have little bits that need to be trimmed off. This method is ok for a few pieces, but when … Read More →

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Notches

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Traditionally home sewing patterns are riddled with outward facing triangles. These notches serve as a marker on the corresponding adjoining piece to ensure the garment goes together properly when the notches match up. These little bits are especially difficult to maneuver around with a pair of scissors. Sure practice makes perfect, but I personally hate cutting and anything that can expedite the process is always welcome. Traditionally mass production patterns have the … Read More →

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Seam Allowance

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Traditionally home sewing patterns do not skimp on the seam allowances. Don’t quote me on it, but I believe this stems from keeping the fit alterable. This is a good feature to have, especially if your weight fluctuates and you need to add or reduce the width. However, when it comes to the finished project, sometimes things just have a tendency to look homemade, but you just cannot put your … Read More →

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Patternmaking: How to Increase the Muscle

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step-4We all have areas that we like to cover up and those areas are generally fuller than we would like. Upperarms and biceps are a constant woe and not all patterns are made to accommodate this. If this sounds like you, check out my suggestions below on how to modify the pattern.Step 1) Check the muscle of the body measurements and finished garment measurements to determine how much you will … Read More →

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